How to Care for Your Clothes: Stains, Pilling, and More

A small stain, a loose button, or lint on your favorite sweater doesn’t mean the garment has outlived its usefulness. We speak from personal experience: When Bijou eats spaghetti with tomato sauce while wearing a white blouse, we sometimes improvise a “bib” just to be on the safe side.

We want to help you not only find new favorite pieces but also keep them looking their best for as long as possible. In this guide, we’ll show you what works in typical clothing emergencies—and when less really is more.

FIRST THINGS FIRST: LOOK FIRST, THEN ACT

What happened?
Is it a stain, discoloration, pilling, or some other type of damage? The more precisely you identify the problem, the more effectively you can address it.

What kind of fabric do you have in front of you?
Cotton, wool, silk, and other fabrics react differently to water, friction, heat, and fabric care products. What works for a cotton shirt might damage a delicate wool sweater.

What care instructions does the label provide?
Here you'll find important information on whether and how the garment can be washed, dried, or ironed.

Which cleaning method is the gentlest?
Start with as little friction, heat, and harsh chemicals as possible. So, first gently blot a stain instead of scrubbing it, remove lint gently if possible, and only resort to stronger methods if the simple approach isn’t enough.

Can you test the care producton a hiddenspot first?
Try out new products or home remedies on an inconspicuous spot first. That way, you can see if the color, surface, or material changes before you treat a visible area.

Case 1:

THE SWEATER PILLS

When little bobbles form on your favorite sweater, we’re quick to call them lint. Often, however, this is actually what’s known as “pilling”: Friction causes small fibers to come loose and clump together into visible bobbles—frequently in areas that are subject to particular wear and tear, such as under the arms or where a pocket rubs against the fabric. In addition, there are loose lint, hairs, or dust that are simply resting on the fabric. And then there’s what’s known as “shedding”: this is when the sweater itself loses individual fibers, for example while being worn or shaken out. Depending on what you’re dealing with, a different method will help.

Loose lint, hair, or dust: Carefully remove them with a lint brush or lint roller.
Pilling: Lay the garment flat and remove the pills with a lint shaver, applying light pressure. For fine knits, test on an inconspicuous area first. With alpaca, mohair, and similar fabrics, take a close look—their fluffy surface is part of the material’s character and shouldn’t simply be shaved off.
The sweater is “shedding”: A slight loss of fibers can be normal at first with fluffy yarns. However, if the sweater is losing a noticeable amount of fibers or the fabric is visibly thinning, it’s best not to keep experimenting with it—instead, have it checked by a professional—feel free to do so right here at your Bijou.

Better not: Pick at the pills with your fingers or rub them vigorously against the fabric. Doing so can pull out more fibers and put unnecessary strain on the surface.

In our blog post “An Overview of Wool Types,” we’ll show you how to properly wash, dry, and store wool sweaters .

Case 2:

BUTTON MISSING? ZIPPER STUCK?

Lost a button or is your zipper stuck? Often, the problem is easier to fix than you might think.

Missing button: First, check to see if there's a spare button attached to the garment. If so, you can usually sew it back on quickly with a needle and matching thread.
If the zipper is stuck: Do not pull it with force. First, check to see if any fabric or thread is caught in the zipper, and carefully remove it. If any teeth are missing or the slider is damaged, take the garment to a professional.

Better not: Keep pulling when something gets stuck. A stuck zipper can quickly turn into a broken one.

Case 3:

STAINS? DON'T PANIC.

Tomato sauce on your blouse, coffee on your pants, or a splash of oil during lunch: Stains happen. It’s important to act quickly, but not at any cost—because vigorous rubbing, hot water, or the first home remedy that comes to mind can actually make the stain worse, depending on the situation. Better yet: Identify the stain, stay calm, and take a targeted approach.

First Aid for Stains

Remove excess: Carefully blot up the liquid with a clean, absorbent cloth, and gently lift off any solid residue. Remember: dab, don’t rub! Rubbing too hard can cause the stain to spread or penetrate deeper into the fibers.
Avoid using heat: Hot water, a hair dryer, or a dryer can set certain stains even more firmly.
Check the fabric: Cotton can usually withstand more than silk or wool. Follow the care label instructions and test new products on a hidden area first.
On the go? It's no big deal if you don't have gall soap on hand. First, blot up as much of the stain as possible. You can treat it more thoroughly later at home.

What caused the stain, and how do you treat it?

Coffee, tea, wine: Gently blot the stain and, if the fabric is suitable and washable, treat it first with cold to lukewarm water.
Oil, grease, makeup: Absorb grease and then treat it with a targeted grease-dissolving solution.
Blood, milk, eggs: always start with cold water.
Tomato sauce or chocolate: First, remove any residue, then check whether the grease and stains need to be treated.

A CLOSER LOOK AT HOME REMEDIES

When it comes to stains, there are at least as many “secret tips” out there as there are stains themselves. Some actually help, while others can actually damage your favorite item. Before you turn the stain into a chemistry lab, it’s worth taking a closer look.

White wine on red wine: better to skip it. Cold water and a suitable stain remover are the better choice.
Salt with red wine: It can absorb fresh liquid, but it does not replace the subsequent treatment.
Dish soap for grease: may help with suitable, washable fabrics—test it on a hidden area first.
Vinegar or baking soda: These can be useful for certain stains and residues, but they aren't a cure-all.

Case 4:

SHOES IN THE WASHING MACHINE?

Whether a shoe can go in the washing machine depends not on the color of the sole, but primarily on the material and construction. Water, heat, and movement can damage the upper, the adhesive joints, or the shoe's shape.

Textile or canvas: Gentle machine washing is possible, provided the care instructions allow it.
Leather or suede: Do not put in the washing machine. Clean by hand using appropriate products.
Delicate parts or areas with many adhesive joints: It’s also best to clean these by hand.

Can they be machine-washed? Remove anyheavy dirt, take out the laces and insoles, and place the shoes in a laundry bag or pillowcase. Adding a few old towels to the drum will also help keep the shoes from getting tossed around too much during the wash cycle.

After washing: Loosely stuffthe shoes with absorbent paper (preferably unprinted) and let them air dry—avoid the dryer and heaters.

Our advice: If you’re unsure, it’s better to wash them by hand. A slightly more involved care routine is still better than a clean shoe that has lost its shape.

Case 5:

GRAY INSTEAD OF WHITE?

A grayish haze doesn't automatically mean you need to use bleach. Colors that have bled into the wash, dirt that hasn't been completely removed, or the wrong amount of detergent can make whites look dull over time. That's why the same rule applies here: first, look for the cause.

Have they gradually turned gray? Wash whites separately, don't overfill the drum, and use the correct amount of detergent. For sturdy white fabrics, a powdered all-purpose detergent can help.
Sudden discoloration? It's probably because another piece of clothing bled on it. Treat the discoloration (wash it again) before the garment dries.
Is there still a grayish haze? A suitable fabric whitener or oxygen bleach can help—but only if the fabric and care label allow it.

Better not: Usechlorine bleach just in case. White doesn’t automatically mean it’s bleach-safe.